Skincare marketing can be confusing, but a handful of ingredients have strong scientific support. Dermatologists repeatedly recommend them because they work for a wide range of skin types. Here is what each does and how to use it.

1. Sunscreen

Broad-spectrum sunscreen is the foundation of healthy skin, protecting against sunburn, skin cancer and premature aging. In Canada, sunscreens are regulated by Health Canada. Choose SPF 30 or higher and reapply every two hours outdoors.

2. Retinoids

Vitamin A derivatives such as retinol, retinal and prescription tretinoin speed up cell turnover, improve fine lines and help with acne. Start two or three nights a week and increase gradually. Avoid during pregnancy unless your doctor approves.

3. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

An antioxidant that brightens skin and helps protect against environmental damage. Use in the morning under sunscreen. Store in a dark, airtight container to slow oxidation.

4. Niacinamide

A form of vitamin B3 that supports the skin barrier, reduces redness and helps regulate oil. Well tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive skin.

5. Ceramides

Lipids that make up much of the skin barrier. Ceramide moisturizers are especially helpful in Canadian winters and for eczema-prone skin.

6. Hyaluronic acid

Draws water into the skin for hydration and plumpness. Apply to damp skin and follow with moisturizer.

7. Alpha and beta hydroxy acids

Glycolic and lactic acids (AHAs) exfoliate the surface for smoother texture. Salicylic acid (a BHA) penetrates oil and helps unclog pores, making it useful for acne.

8. Azelaic acid

Helps with acne, redness and dark spots, and is often recommended for rosacea-prone skin.

How to combine ingredients

Tips

• Introduce one new active at a time.
• Patch test new products.
• Expect results after 8 to 12 weeks, not overnight.

For persistent skin concerns, consult a dermatologist. Read more: common skincare mistakes and benefits of vitamin C.